Category Archives: kansas state

Western Kansas: wright, dodge city,

Doll Avenue, Wright, ks

Doll Avenue, Wright, ks

To be honest, we didn’t do much in western Kansas beyond the confines of D’s 1960s ranch house in the tiny town of Wright, outside Dodge City. We were there to pack up and haul out all the stuff that a family of 8 children accumulated during the past 55 years. And we found things that were much older, some back to the late 1800s, we think.

View from the Steimel house

View from the Steimel house

A melancholy task, but good to be with other family who came from New Mexico and elsewhere in Kansas. Lots of laughter, occasional tears, family tales shared. We did emerge for lunch yesterday at Tacos Jalisco, our favorite Mexican place on Wyatt Earp blvd. in Dodge. A late dinner was at a surprisingly packed Applebee’s near Boot Hill, maybe some others were there because there weren’t many other options on a Sunday at 10 pm. I did have a very good limeade.

Shadow

Shadow

Today, we stopped to see family in Wichita and then picked up ribs “to travel” at Gates BBQ in Kansas City. Now three hours til home.

P.s. Comfort Inn in Lenexa turned out to be a mixed bag. Our room was clean but the thin walls meant nonstop noise from someone who appeared to fall asleep with the tv on. Argh

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Sentimental journey: Overland Park farmers market, cottonwood falls, bazaar cemetery

Cottonwood falls courthouse

Cottonwood falls courthouse

image

On our drive to Dirck’s childhood home for the last time (it has been sold) we have stopped at some favorite spots during our almost 30 years driving together through Kansas.

The Overland Park Farmers market was overflowing with gorgeous produce but we restrained ourselves since and bought only what we can eat in the next two days away. Peaches, cantelope and a fantastic looking bread from the Ibis bakery stand (our “morning buns” were delicious, a bun made with croissant dough sprinkled with cinnamon sugar.)

Bazaar cemetery, flint hills

Bazaar cemetery, flint hills

On to the flint hills and the old town of Cottonwood Falls with its glorious French revival courthouse. We wandered down the three block brick Main Street, poked around in some antique/junk shops and craft shops, had fantastic sirloin steak sliders in the restaurant At the classy western hotel, The Grand Central Hotel and found a cool old limestone motel at the other end of Main Street along the river that looks like an amazing place to stay, the Millstream Resort Motel.

We drove south along scenic byway 177 through the vast open, gently rolling flint hills, the road almost entirely to ourselves. So much open space, land, sky, road. love that feeling. We stopped briefly at the old Bazaar Cemetery to walk along the old gravestones and hear nothing but the wind blowing through the trees.

Now we are in Wright Kansas, an unincorporated city of less than 100 people, outside Dodge City, packing up the house with some of Dirck’s siblings and their families. Strange. Sad. One of life’s endings.

Corner of main and broadway

Corner of main and broadway

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Dodge city dining– tacos Jalisco

imageNo visit to Wright, Kansas is complete without a visit to Tacos Jalisco in nearby Dodge City so we found ourselves here, yet again, on a suddenly snowy bleak day after Xmas. Good nothin fancy soft tacos (fried pork is my new fave) and carne asada and flan in a long open dining room with lots of murals of the old country. We also did a little antiquing at the dodge city antique mall near Hastings dept store and stopped at Dillons grocery for some Art and Mary jalapeño potato chips, a Kansas Classic (it was just arts when we lived in Wichita many years ago.)image

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Eating en route to Dodge City: Liberty, Mo (Stroud’s chicken), Lawrence, ks (Wheatfields), Salina (cozy inn)

imageFine dining en route to dodge city Kansas from Des Moines for Christmas:

Stroud’s (“we choke our own chickens”) off I 35 north of Kansas City). We didn’t think we’d be able to stop here because there is usually a long wait but we drove right into a prime parking spot on a Tuesday night at 8:15 pm (albeit holiday date) and sat at the small bar rather than waiting  40 minutes for a table. Great pan fried chicken and what everyone needs after a chicken dinner – killer cinnamon rolls, buttery and warm. Perfect stop before picking our son up at the Kansas City airport.

Wheatfields bakery in Lawrence where we learned we could avoid the long line for take out pastries and bread if we ordered breakfast as well at a counter with no line. And good grub too although I just had a small croissant (still recovering from Stroud’s.) Our waitress enthusiastically recommended another old tome bakery in town for its cream cheese donuts. Next time. (And there will be…)

Cozy Inn, we took up three of the six seats at the counter in this shoe box of a burger joint, with a great view of the two tattooed guys cooking sliders on a griddle. Forgot how good those sliders are..small and mighty, slightly rare with grilled onions and pickles (no cheese or fries allowed) on a small moist white bun.image

Ad Astra, a hipster coffee shop around the block on Salina’s main drag where I had a good chai latte and found a great used book about Elizabeth “Grandma” Layton, a sweet older lady from small town Kansas who painted brilliantly wicked self portraits. (One of which hangs in our kitchen nook.) We met her in the late 1980’s when some friends and I were playing pool at a bar and met her nephew, or some such, who called her to see if she was receiving visitors. She was . So we went to her house and she served us lemonade and showed us around and let us buy signed posters of her work. Only in Kansas!! She died in 1993 I see from the book (which I had to buy!)

The sun is finally out with endless blue sky, bald brown hills, the occasional wind-whipped tree and lots of gleaming white whirling wind turbines. Life is good.

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Casa Alvarez and Jalisco: good Mexican in dodge city

D and n at Doll ancestral home in Wright, Ks

D and n at Doll ancestral home in Wright, Ks

We had excellent fajitas at Casa Alvarez  in downtown Dodge City – the steak and grilled onions and peppers were packed with flavor. Next time we will stick with just the steak and skip the pork which turned out to be a thin dry slice of meat. Down the street, the pork tacos and flan were a good choice at Jalisco, which has order-at-the-counter service vs. table service at casa Alvarez.

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Shelter from the dirt storms: ad Astra Books and coffee in Salina, ks.

imageYes it really is blowing dirt here in the Smokey Hills of central Kansas,  with brown clouds above the pale green and tan wheat fields, the occasional wind-whipped tree and  wind turbine farm.

But in downtown Salina we stumbled upon a little oasis of alternative-ness, Ad Astra Coffee and books. Cozy wood and stone interior with old sofas and sun drenched plants, Good coffee, not-so-great bagels (but can’t fault them for trying), interesting book selection including tomes by resident world famous (no joke) Agriculture visionary Wes Jackson of the Salina-based Land Institute.  very welcome after a grim night in a musty room at The Days Inn along I-70.imageimageimage

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What to see en route from Ames Iowa to Coffeyville Kansas?

Largest Community Rolled Ball of Twine in Cawker City, Kansas

From time to time, I field questions from friends like the one below (a Kansas native, I might add,  who is a longtime Iowa transplant.)

A friend is driving down to Coffeeville, Kansas from Ames and wants to know what weird and wonderful things he should stop and see along the way. So up your alley!
 
Is the biggest ball of string even remotely along the way? He’s willing to go a little off the beaten path, and loves quirky things.
 
What can you recommend?

Wow – that route is a challenge. If he takes 169 south from Kansas city – which appears to be the fastest route – he’ll just miss the Flint Hills, which are one of my favorite Kansas places. If he takes 69 south, another option, he’ll go through some places I remember as interesting – Fort Scott, Baxter Springs and Pittsburg. He should check out this story on southeast Kansas from the NYTimes Frugal Traveler done http://www.nytimes.com/2013/08/07/travel/in-kansas-museums-fried-chicken-and-yes-oz.html last summer.

 As for the aforementioned “biggest ball of string, ” it is actually “the second largest ball of twine” (or sometimes the largest depending on the definition) and it’s in Cawker City – in North Central Kansas so not on your friend’s route, alas.  How weird is it that I know this stuff?

Route 66 Soda Fountain, 2008 in Baxter Springs!

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