Word has it from Wini Moranville with DSM magazine that the redo of Beaverdale’s Chefs Kitchen by the folks who brought us the good DSM restaurants Eatery A, Alba and Harbinger should be unveiled in Mid-April. No further word on details including a possible new name or type of cuisine. Our dinner at Alba last Saturday night (for Dirck’s birthday) was good – the red wine braised brisket was a bit dry but the carrot congee (whatever that is) was as moist as mac n’ cheese so that helped; the pan roasted chicken breast with a cake of bacon-sage bread pudding and Brussel sprouts was delicious. I would have tried the fancy deviled eggs if the birthday boy liked deviled eggs. We went with a mushroom bruschetta, which was very good. And the molten chocolate lava cake was decadent, as usual.
Wini also reports that Eatery A , at 2932 Ingersoll Ave. has added brunch/lunch service on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday. Before it was Friday through Sunday. Looks like its avocado toast will give St. Kilda’s some competition.
In the meantime, I’m eager to try the new Panka Peruvian restaurant, a few blocks east at 2708 Ingersoll! Haven’t had Peruvian food since we were in Peru in, um, 2013 when our son was studying in Lima. This is the only Peruvian Restaurant in Des Moines, apparently, although maybe not the first?
By Wini Moranville
Until this year, Eatery A only served noontime meals on Fridays through Sundays. Now, they’ve added brunch/lunch service on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays. More good news: To celebrate their fifth anniversary, Eatery A is offering a buy one/get one free lunch special on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays during the month of February. Starting today.
Johnson and team have said “game on” to the culinary scene’s ongoing avocado-toast crush, and Eatery A’s is as crush-worthy as any I’ve had elsewhere. Well, almost. I must say I prefer an oozing poached egg over the mostly cooked-through one here, but that’s a personal preference. Otherwise the smashed avocado topped with artfully arranged feta, pickled corn, conserved tomato and chickpeas and a slight tangle of arugula pleased in all the right rich, sprightly and bright ways. My dining pal was equally pleased with her quiche Florentine (aka spinach quiche), which especially stood out for its brown-butter crust and the accompanying shaved-fennel salad. Just lovely.
So, where has former exec chef Gonwa gone? He’s off concepting a new venue with restaurateur Jason Simon (of Alba, Eatery A and Harbinger fame). The new restaurant is taking over the former Chef’s Corner Kitchen spot in Beaverdale. Johnson tells me they’re shooting for a mid-April opening.
Eatery A is at 2932 Ingersoll Ave., 515-282-8085; eateryadsm.com.