(A few days after the fact:)
We are in the ancient college town of Coimbra tonight, the Oxford of Portugal, staying in a four bedroom guesthouse, quebra Luz, in the old part of the city just below the old cathedral. We are amazed we found this tiny place. Somehow we drove up a very narrow stoned road, turned a few corners and we actually in the right place. That doesn’t happen every day. The town feels much smaller and less touristed than Lisbon and lots of students around, wearing their serious black capes.
It was an easy drive, about 2 hours, from the Lisbon airport where we bade a sad goodbye to our pals Francine and Russ who returned to London ((san Francisco in 2016!) after spending the morning exploring the cute little shops north and west of our hotel, around principle real (north of barrio Alton) visiting the charming house of the great fado singer amalia Rodriguez. last night we ate at one of our hotels two restaurants, the decadente, which was jam packed with a young interesting crowd and the food was very good too.
Tonight we went to a very different place for dinner, restaurant ze Manuel de Ossos, a six table restaurant tucked away in a narrow alley that specializes in traditional portugese food. The place had a line by 7:15, even before opening. We sat in a little alcove covered with handwritten notes taped to the wall by customers singing he restaurants praises. We had the famous Ossos (pork bones) and pork belly in a special sauce. Excellent.